Showing posts with label juarez. Show all posts
Showing posts with label juarez. Show all posts

Saturday, January 21, 2017

Mexico: Juárez: First Date: Horses


I've been to locations that featured art themes with:



With Juárez, I add horses.

Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


The artsy fiberglass herd stood in the promenade in front of the Museum of the Revolution of the Border (neé Aduana Fronteriza when first the building was constructed).


Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.

If I were a more museum-y kinda gal, I would have scrutinized the provenance of each horse and been able to share same with you. But I'm not, so all I've got are the photos.

Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


But there's this for information seekers.


Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


According to the article linked above, the horses are stallions. Please. Normally, I probably wouldn't have thought twice about this specificity, but I'm writing this post after my experience at the Fountain Theater and during the early days of an era in which my head of state can boast about how he grasps women's groins without their prior consent, with impunity. This is why I don't read the fine print of exhibits. I had been happy just thinking "horses."

Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.



Horse art, Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.









Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Mexico: Juárez: First Date: Kentucky Club

The Kentucky Club, Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.



It has become my custom to seek cultural interpretations from authors whose writing has a sense of the place where I live.

In South Louisiana, these writers were James Lee Burke and Ernest J. Gaines.

For El Paso, I identified a long list of literary cultural guides. I've started with Benjamin Alire Saenz.

The very first book of Mr. Saenz's that I read was a collection of stories called Everything Begins and Ends at the Kentucky Club

The Kentucky Club, Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


I read the first story, He Has Gone to be With the Women, while I reclined on my "couch," which is also my bed, in my studio-plus apartment.

All of a sudden, I gasped, then sat up straighter against the headboard. Wha?

Below is the passage I read, and I include some delicious wrap-around to the cause of my gasp because it is also so rich with cultural illumination in the short exchange. A bit of background: The story protagonist, Juan Carlos, has just met the story's other principal at the Kentucky Club. They are introducing themselves.
We found ourselves sitting outside. The morning was cold. The wind was back, the wind that was in love with El Paso, the wind that refused to leave us to enjoy the sun.  .... 

"Juan Carlos."
"Juan Carlos," he repeated "Where do you live?"
"Sunset Heights."

[And here is when I gaped - thinking, "that's where I live!!!!"]


He tapped his paper cup. "Interesting neighborhood." 
.... "It's a beautiful place," he said.
"It was built in 1900."
"Ten years before the Revolution."
"More than a hundred years ago."
"And here we are. One real Mexican and one Mexican who's American.""My grandfather was born here," I said."My grandfather was born in Israel," he said. 
"So I'm more Mexican than you are."
.... "Do you like to fight?" [he asked.]
"No, I don't like to fight," [I said.]
"Certainly you are not a Mexican," he said.


In The Art of Translation, another story of the book's collection, the protagonist and a woman walk over to the Kentucky Club from El Paso, via the same route I took in my first foray:
She held my hand as we walked over the Santa Fe Bridge. I found myself sitting at a booth in the Kentucky Club. It was strange. I should have felt drunker than I felt. She asked me questions. I answered them and I smiled to myself because I knew the answers weren't true. Men lied to women all the time. Normal

When I read the book, I kind of wondered if the Kentucky Club was a real or an imagined locale of Mr. Saenz's.

Not long after I finished the book, my landlords had a man come to ready my room's radiator for the coming winter. Somehow I learned that he lived in Juárez, and I asked him if there was a Kentucky Club there.

Not only was there a Kentucky Club, but he used to live in one of the rooms above the club many years ago! He told me that back in the day, women weren't allowed in the club, and that along the foot of the bar was a trough in which men would pee so they wouldn't have to leave their spots at the bar. Eucalyptus leaves were placed in the trough to dampen the odor, and as I think about it, probably to squelch some of the splashing that would likely occur. This story sounded apocryphal but he swore it was true. (But then see Mr. Saenz's story excerpt above.)

Of course, it became a destination goal to visit the Kentucky Club if for no other reason but to see this trough with my very own eyes. Because I'm lowbrow like that.

Foreshadowing:


The Kentucky Club, Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.



The Kentucky Club, Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


So on my first date with Juárez, I visited the Kentucky Club. I sat at the bar. Placed my lady foot atop the trough. Asked the bartender about the trough; he confirmed the story. (But again, see the story excerpt above.)

By the time I went to Juárez, I'd learned that the Kentucky Club was actually damn famous. For one, it (allegedly) invented the margarita. Therefore, that's what I ordered when I visited.

The Kentucky Club, Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.


Thousands of El Pasoan adolescents also patronized the Kentucky Club in decades past, as Mexican drinking laws were much more lax and what the hey, the club was so close to home for El Pasoans.

Cultural luminaries from both sides of the border visited the Kentucky Club.


But it's not all margaritas and sunshine at the Kentucky Club - the place got into trouble recently for discrimination.



Monday, January 16, 2017

Mexico: Juarez: First Date: Introduction


The El Paso-Juárez Bus mural outside the El Paso History Museum, El Paso, Texas. November 2016.


One of the reasons I chose El Paso as my year's home was its proximity to Mexico, and more specifically, its proximity to Juárez.

It is a continuing source of wonder to me that I live in a conjoined city, with each sister in a different country. Severed but still attached, still sisters.

You strike at one of the sisters and the other sister feels the pain, too. Through money or blood or both. You love one sister, and both bloom.

Some El Pasoans have never been to Juárez. Some used to go, especially as adolescents, to party, but haven't been in years. Some grew up in Juárez, but haven't been back since the high killing times. Some live in El Paso, but work in Juárez. Some live in Juárez, but work in El Paso. There are fabulously wealthy Juarenses, astoundingly poor Juarenses, and everyone in between.


My first date with Juarez was a Friday afternoon in November.

I didn't think about November being among the busiest months for the border crossing, as so many Juarenses come to El Paso to buy Christmas gifts. In other words, it's pretty fast work to walk into Juárez, but slow, slow, slow at times to walk back into El Paso. Plus I happened to choose Veteran's Day for my first foray into Juárez. Doh. LOTS of traffic going in to El Paso. Not only Christmas shopping season, but good sales happening in El Paso.  (Oh, you didn't realize that Mexico brings money TO the United States economy?)

Long vehicle line to get from Juárez to El Paso. November 2016.


I'm going to go into more detail about my first date with Juárez in separate posts, but below is a video and a slide show about that day.

To come:
  • The Kentucky Club
  • Horses
  • Murals
  • Coming and going


Video below, Friday Afternoon in Juarez:




And a slide show of my first date with Juarez here:

November 11 in Juarez


Friday, January 13, 2017

Juárez: Three Quarters




Border between Mexico and USA, US-bound from Mexico. El Paso Bridge, El Paso and Juárez. November 2016.


To walk into Juárez from El Paso: Two quarters.

To walk back into El Paso from Juárez: One quarter.


Looking east onto Rio Grande border between Juárez, Mexico and El Paso, USA, US-bound from Mexico. El Paso Bridge. November 2016.



Remember your passport.

View of El Paso from Juárez at the El Paso Bridge border crossing. Juárez, Chihuahua, Mexico. November 2016.



Just before you walk into Juárez, there are two side-by-side restrooms. Let's call them smart restrooms, because their operations are driven by hand gestures - to open the door, close and lock the door, get water for handwashing, soap, and paper towel.

For any germaphobes among you: They are clean.

Just before you walk onto the bridge back into the US, there are also restrooms. They are also clean.


Emerging into El Paso from Juarez via El Paso Bridge border crossing. El Paso, Texas. November 2016.


Thursday, January 12, 2017

El Paso Sister: Juarez: The Name of the City

El Paso, Texas - This way to Juarez. September 2016.


Before I came to El Paso, I pronounced "Juarez" as: War' - dez, with the 1st syllable slow and easy like a shallow, lazy river.

But almost immediately upon arrival, I heard it pronounced like this: Wah' - des, with the 1st syllable brisk and even a little attitudinal, like an irritated mother asking a pesky child, "whaddayouwant"?

Originally, the city of Juarez had the name El Paso del Norte. The city's name changed in 1888 to Juarez, in honor of Benito Juarez,  who served five terms, not all consecutively, as President of Mexico. Mr. Juarez died in 1872 during his fifth presidential term. It is an understatement to note that he played several historic roles in Mexico during extremely turbulent times.


Some vintage postcards of 1930s Juarez from El Gringo Suelto.




Friday, December 30, 2016

El Paso: Moonrise

September 2016

Moonrise in El Paso and Juarez, watched from Upper Tom Lea Park.


At 7:30 p.m.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.


At 7:31 p.m. 


El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.


At 7:32 p.m.


El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.


At 7:33 p.m. 


El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.


At 7:48 p.m.

El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.


The fireworks in Juarez after:

Fireworks in Juarez after the El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.

Fireworks in Juarez after the El Paso-Juarez moonrise from Upper Tom Lea Park. September 2016.




Oh. My. 


Sunday, December 11, 2016

El Paso: Largest Employers

El Paso is the largest city I've ever lived in, at 675,000 for the city and 880,000 for the metro area (excluding Juarez).

I wondered who the largest employers are. From City of El Paso:




And for good measure, the largest employers in Juarez, albeit with 2010 data:




The Fed tracks both El Paso and Juarez in its economic indices. The August 2016 El Paso Economic Indicators report is here. It includes the most current data available on Juarez.

As in Acadiana in Louisiana, it seems health care is big business here. As is education. In El Paso, the military base, Fort Bliss, is massive. In Juarez, it appears manufacturing is what drives the economy, at least atop the proverbial table.

I wonder how secure Fort Bliss is for the next 10 years or so. Is it on a short list of possible base closures? Does the city and county have a strategic plan in place for such an event?

For now, I'm just taking things in.





Saturday, April 27, 2013

Columbus, New Mexico, Part 5: Raids

Statue of Pancho Villa in Puerto Palomas, Chihuahua, Mexico. Across border from Columbus, New Mexico.


Columbus is famous (the term being relative) for two historic (the term being relative) raids. 

1916: Pancho Villa

Jack Thomas, deputy sheriff, and other officials sensed “something in the air,” said Bill Rakocy, Villa Raids Columbus, N. Mex. Mar. 9, 1916.  “They had noticed strange Mexicans in town—many ‘friendly Mexicans’ became silent and some left town.”  Juan Favela, a local ranch foreman, complained that “the air was bad.”
Thus begins an an engrossing story by Jay W. Sharp, in DesertUSA, about the March 9, 1916, raid of Columbus, New Mexico, by Pancho Villa.

I particularly like this next excerpt:
In spite of the omens, however, the 400 citizens of Columbus, New Mexico, three miles north of the border town of Palomas, Chihuahua, believed themselves generally secure in those pre-dawn hours of March 1916.  They had followed, of course, the violent conflict in their neighboring country, where revolt against dictatorship and the federales (government troops) and land monopolies and the subsequent struggle for national power would claim nearly a million lives, some six percent of Mexico’s total population at the time.  They knew, too, that Pancho Villa’s marauders had pillaged along Mexico’s northern border, raising the specter of attack at Columbus.  Still, the citizens felt secure because they thought the U. S. 13th Cavalry Regiment, dispatched by Commanding Officer General John “Black Jack” Pershing from Fort Bliss, El Paso, Texas, to the nearby Camp Furlong, would protect them.  They felt safe because they could scarcely believe that Pancho Villa would take the risk of crossing the border to challenge a U. S. community and military encampment.

I invite you to read the above a second time.   

It reminds me of something a survivor of the Rwanda genocide told me, when I asked her what she and her family and friends had thought, when so much violence was occurring in the rural areas of her country - weren't they afraid that it was going to reach them? Her reply has always stuck with me, that it seemed far away to them, it didn't feel as if it could reach them in the city. (And, of course, it did.) And, too, she and her family felt some protection from the French - not only were she and a sibling employed via the French Embassy, there was a belief that such a strong ally would not let such horrors visit the country at large. And she lived in a neighborhood where Hutus and Tutsi folks had resided together for years, all friendly.

It reminds me of El Paso, USA, and Juarez, Mexico, in the recent past, two cities immediately adjacent, but in one there were thousands of people being murdered each year in the late 2000s, and in the other, fewer than 20.

It brings to mind a book that had a big impact on me, The Graves Are Not Yet Full, in which the author confronts readers about discounting mass killings in some countries as being "just tribal; it's been going on for centuries and there's nothing we can do about it" (and I will add - "just druglords killing each other and it's only criminals getting killed.") The author, Bill Berkeley, argues that greed or the desire for power/control is always behind mass violence, and there are always those who benefit, and we need to look at who benefits.

And it's a reminder, generally, of how some of us have the luxury of taking for granted our safety and security. Indeed, we feel entitled to such security, without even knowing we feel entitled.

Anyway ... read the story about Pancho Villa's raid on Columbus - it's superbly written.

And here's some surreal stuff about the whole Pancho Villa thing:

In Puerto Palomas, Chihuahua, just over the border from Columbus is this sculpture:

Generals Pershing and Villa in Puerto Palomas, Chihuahua, Mexico

It depicts a fictional meeting between  Pancho Villa and General Pershing - shaking hands! Pershing hunted Villa for about a year in Mexico, to no avail.

Or how about the deal Villa struck with a film company that paid Villa $25,000 in exchange for access during his forays.

Pancho Villa as shot by Mutual Film Company. Credit: Smithsonian Magazine



2011: The Arms Raid


Credit: ColumbusNewMexico.com


I think the hat pretty much tells the story.

But if you want more details, go here. It involves helicopters, several federal agencies, and lots of lights and law enforcement vehicles at night. The indictment here. Some guilty pleas here.  The owner of the gun store in Chaparral, New Mexico, was also arrested and convicted:

From July 2010 until February 2011, Garland sold 193 Kalashnikov-type assault weapons and 9 mm pistols to six co-defendants, including Eddie Espinoza, former mayor of Columbus, New Mexico, and former village trustee Blas "Woody" Gutierrez.

Garland allowed those "straw purchasers" to falsely state on federal forms that they were purchasing the firearms for themselves, even though he had reason to know the weapons were headed to people in Mexico.
 Prosecutors last year said Garland, in facilitating the purchases, "was furthering murder and violence at epic levels in Mexico, all for a quick buck."
They said that between January 2010 and March 2011, the conspirators used their positions to facilitate and safeguard the trafficking of around 200 guns worth about $70,000, to Mexico.
Some of those weapons were later recovered at drug busts and implicated in murders in Mexico, where some 55,000 people have been killed in cartel-related mayhem since 2006.
Source: Chicago Tribune, Gun Dealer Gets 5 Years in Prison in U.S.-Mexico Gun Case



...and here I am on Part 5 on Columbus, New Mexico, and there's still more to tell, despite the fact there's virtually nothing there. It's crazy, I tell you.